Long or short, with or without bangs, the square tickles the necks this spring. And announces the return of a sharper femininity
The girls who love it long know it: the hair that caresses the back is a precious garment. To wear sometimes in front, sometimes behind. Like an ature marrying the body according to the emotions. And that it is sometimes tempting to drop, to explore new frames of self.
The actress Monica Bellucci has just let go of her long, silky jet-black hair for a slightly dipping square with auburn reflections, a work of the famous hairdresser John Nollet. She is not the only one to try the court. This great classic hairstyle tickles the shoulders and shake a little neo-hippie model, with or without fringe style Lou Doillon or Caroline de Maigret, which is associated with a certain bohemian look since the 2000s.
“It’s mostly on the podiums. There are far fewer standard lengths on girls, says Olivier Schawalder, a Paris-based hair stylist. They correspond to the sexy years from which one moves away to go to a more grunge way of asserting one’s femininity. The square gives personality to the wearer. The proof: many models take off thanks to a cut that becomes their signature, like Charlee Fraser. ”
From “bob” to “lob”
Several variations scroll. The curly, smooth or curly short square was the flagship hairstyle of the spring-summer 2018 fashion weeks, combined with Sophie Marceau’s curtain-style fringe in La Boum, easier to maintain than a straight fringe. Even more decided, the blunt bob – which refers to the grunge aesthetic of the 1990s with an open neck and spikes grazing the bottom of the ears – was very present on parades autumn-winter 2017-2018.
On the side of the versions at the height of the shoulders, the lob (contraction of the words long and bob, the latter meaning “square”) and the degraded square plunge are carried with a well centered line and lengths styled-tousled style (wavy always in English-speaking jargon) for a falsely neglected style. Left to work the hair by hand with an oil or to use a hair straightener to create small waves. “The time is not over to over-pruned cuts. It takes less control, more natural. The squares are fluid, not domesticated, not graphic, not brushed. As an extension of the spirit of the bohemian lengths but in square version, “says the expert Schawalder. In this sense, the square has the advantage of requiring very little maintenance drying or jumping bed.
Cleopatra to Coco Chanel
It has not always been the case. Witness the first artistic traces of this cup, which go back to ancient Egypt, pictorial representations in the tombs and monuments. “It was mostly wigs, mostly brown, mahogany, made of braids or ripples and covered with ornamentation for the nobility or for the representations of their gods,” says Hervé Boudon, hairdressers of stars in the big Parisian salon he held for fifty years, until 2014.
In the Middle Ages, then in the Renaissance, it is found on the male heads, more or less long, like Charles V teenager, Philip IV of Spain. It was not until the twentieth century that it was adopted by women. “The First World War changed the status of women, who had to replace the men mobilized. Those who worked at the factory cut their hair for safety reasons. The American nurses on the front adopted the permanent court, “says the hairdresser historian, author of A history of the hairstyle, at Tohubohu Editions.
The Hollywood stars of the 1920s took up the torch with very sophisticated squares, like boys like Louise Brooks, then the couturiers and seamstresses followed, Coco Chanel in the lead. Still very present between the 1930s and the 1950s, the square was longer, often wavy.
In the years 1960-1970, the cuts became again more pointed, very structured and geometric. According to Hervé Boudon, it is often the actresses, even the models, who launch the fashions. The square goes away and then comes back. He is always feminine because he moves. But why this return in force for two years? “I think that in times of insecurity and lack of landmarks, the square reassures. He frames, protects. It moves well and is easy to replace. It allows women to assert a personality, to bring out what is most beautiful in them, “concludes the historian.